The essential fatty acid, linoleic acid, which can inhibit the formation of acne spots – specifically the hyperkeratinisation which causes the blocking of the sebaceous glands, is found to be low on the skin surface of acne sufferers.
Counter-intuitive though this seems, it is thought that safflower oil, sunflower oil or Jojoba oil (jojoba oil is particularly good for dissolving the pore-blocking sebum) may be effective when used topically for acne (Dowing D et al. Essential Fatty Acids and Acne, 1995). Try rubbing a small amount of any of these oils into a particular area of your skin and see how it responds.
If you would like a topical application to help with the control of infection and reduction of inflammation, then tea tree and lavender essential oils may also be helpful. First you must buy good quality essential oils – if an oil is too cheap it won't be much good – get one from a reputable supplier of aromatherapy products. Despite their names, essential oils are not 'oily', they are volatile substances. One way of telling if you have a good quality oil is by dabbing a drop on a piece of paper, if it evaporates quickly, leaving no oily mark behind, you have a good essential oil – conversely a poor quality oil will have been diluted using cheaper substances, usually other oils, and will leave a mark.
A mixture of 5-25% essential oil of tea tree and essential oil of lavender to jojoba oil is a good combination to try. (For example at full strength this would represent 12 drops of tea tree + 13 drops of Lavender in 100 drops of jojoba) . Some people can be sensitive to essential oils, particularly tea tree, so try a smaller dilution at first and see how your skin responds and only increase the percentage, if you think your skin can tolerate it. As with everything, cease application if your skin becomes irritated or sore – and never apply essential oils neat to the skin.
Another home-made topical remedy that might help control acne spots is apple cider vinegar(organic if possible) in water at a 1: 10 dilution (1 part Apple cider vinegar to 10 parts water). Dab this over affected areas after washing your skin.
It is true that acne often needs to be tackled on a number of fronts (internally, dietarily and topically) and it is unlikely that only a topical application will help with the overalll presentation (Medical Herbalists have a choice of numerous herbs that can be used internally to assist in managing the problem and will advise on diet). However, controlling external infection and discouraging the formation of acne spots is a very important part of any strategy to tackle acne spots.
Most of all you must remember that you really do need to treat your skin gently, try not to squeeze any pustules and find something gentle to wash your skin with – if you do chose a proprietary product make sure it is not too harsh. Although your instinct may be to wash your skin vigorously to remove the oil, this may not be the best strategy. You may alter the ph of the skin and destroy friendly bacteria that may actually be beneficial in combating the harmful bacteria that is causing your acne to become infected.
This information is meant for educational purposes only and not intended as a guide to self-treatment. You should always seek professional advice. Remember that herbs can interact with other drugs and may be contra-indicated if you have certain medical conditions, are pregnant or lactating. Don't take too much of anything for too long and discontinue immediately if you have any ill effects. . Take care when using wild plants or any herbs, that you have the correct species from a reliable source.
Catherine Schofield BSc MNIMH Herbalist Cheshire Herbs and Herbal Medicine